Thickeners

A thickener is an ingredient that raises the viscosity of a formula so it has the right body and texture, from a light serum to a rich cream or a firm gel. Thickeners also help stabilize a product and keep particles suspended. Common ones include carbomer, xanthan gum, and cellulose derivatives like HEC.

A gelling agent builds a network that turns a liquid into a structured gel, like a clear face gel. A thickener raises viscosity and improves texture without always forming a true gel. Many ingredients do both to some degree, and the terms are often used together for this reason.

It depends on your goal. Carbomer 940 gives crystal-clear, non-drip gels but must be neutralized with a base and does not work with cationic ingredients. Xanthan gum is natural, needs no neutralizing, and holds up across a wide pH range, but can feel stringy at higher levels. Choose carbomer for clarity, xanthan for natural claims and ease.

Yes. Carbomer 940 disperses as a thin, cloudy liquid and only thickens into a clear gel once you neutralize it by raising the pH with a base such as sodium hydroxide or triethanolamine. Without that step it will not gel. Xanthan gum and cellulose thickeners do not need neutralizing.

Choose a thickener that matches your look: carbomer for a clear gel, xanthan or a cellulose for a natural or cost-effective option. Disperse the powder slowly into the water phase while stirring, or pre-mix it with glycerine to avoid clumps, then let it fully hydrate. Start below 1 percent and build up.

Natural options include xanthan gum and guar gum, both plant-derived polysaccharides, along with other gums. They thicken without neutralizing and suit formulas that carry a natural or organic claim. Cellulose derivatives like HEC are semi-synthetic and often grouped with them for their plant-cellulose origin.

Usually a small amount. Many gums and celluloses work well under 1 to 2 percent, and a little change makes a big difference to the texture. Start low, let the thickener fully hydrate, then add more if you need it. Adding too much xanthan at once is a common cause of a stringy gel.