Aromatic Raw Materials

Botanical extracts are the active compounds of a plant, pulled out into a liquid or powder that you add to a formula. They carry benefits like antioxidant, brightening, or soothing activity, so a serum or cream does more than moisturize. They differ from essential oils, which carry a plant's aromatic oil rather than its water-soluble actives.

Add a water-soluble or glycerin-based liquid extract to the water phase of your product, ideally once it has cooled below 40°C so heat does not damage the actives. A powdered extract must first be dissolved in the liquid it is soluble in. Most extracts are used at 1 to 5 percent.

It depends on the extract and how it was made. Many cosmetic extracts come in a water, glycerin, or glycol base and go into the water phase; others are oil-soluble and go into the oil phase. Each listing states the solubility so you can match it to your formula.

Rosemary extract is rich in antioxidants like rosmarinic and carnosic acid that help defend skin from oxidative stress, and it has a calming, clarifying effect. In haircare it is used to support the scalp and circulation, which is why it appears in so many scalp serums and shampoos.

Licorice extract contains glabridin, a compound used to help fade dark spots and even skin tone, which makes it popular in brightening serums and treatments for hyperpigmentation. It is also soothing, so it suits sensitive and reactive skin.

Most water-based botanical extracts are used at 1 to 5 percent of the total formula. If the extract comes with efficacy data, follow the use level in that data, which can range from as little as 0.1 percent to 5 percent. Start at the lower end and adjust.

Yes. Chamomile is one of the most soothing botanicals, used to calm redness, irritation, and the discomfort that comes with dryness or sensitivity. It pairs well with other gentle actives in products aimed at reactive or eczema-prone skin.